Rotala Rotundifolia is one of the most popular aquatic plants among aquascapers.
It is especially prized for its vibrant colors and ease of maintenance. Native to Southeast Asia, Rotala is known for its unique ability to change color depending on light intensity.
Under the right lighting conditions and with sufficient nutrients, the plant can transform from green to stunning shades of pink, red, and even orange.
Rotala grows rapidly in aquariums and is highly versatile, making it a favorite in aquascaping.
Scientific Name | Rotala rotundifolia |
Family | Lythraceae |
Origin | Southeast Asia |
Common Names | Roundleaf Toothcup, Dwarf Rotala, Pink sprites |
Care Level | Easy to Moderate |
Growth Rate | Fast |
Height | 20-30 cm (8-12 inches) |
Water Conditions | pH 5.5-7.5 Soft to moderately hard water (4-15 dGH) 68 – 82 F (20 – 28 C) |
Lighting | Moderate to High |
CO2 | Not necessary but highly beneficial |
Tank Placement | Midground to Background |
Overview
Rotala is a popular stem plant originating from Southeast Asia, often used in aquascaping but not exclusively. It is an ideal choice for any aquarium due to its ease of cultivation.
It was first introduced under the incorrect name Rotala Indica around 1960. Since then, confusion regarding its nomenclature has persisted.
In many aquarium shops, you may often find Rotala Rotundifolia labeled as Rotala Indica or Rotala Rotundifolia (Indica).
The true Rotala Indica is actually a plant commonly known as Ammania bonsai, which naturally occurs in India.
This plant is known by several common names that reflect its widespread use and popularity in aquariums. The most commonly encountered names include:
- Roundleaf Toothcup
- Dwarf Rotala
- Indian Toothcup
However, the last name can be misleading due to the confusion with the naming.
Rotala primarily grows in moist, swampy areas and along the edges of rice fields. The plant adapts very well to both aquatic and terrestrial environments. Emerged forms produce small pink flowers.
In its natural habitat, Rotala frequently experiences flooding, which has led to remarkable adaptations to both high and low water levels.
Rotala rotundifolia has several varieties, including Rotala Colorata, Rotala Orange Juice, and Rotala H’Ra.
Characteristics
Rotala rotundifolia has small, rounded leaves that grow in opposite pairs along its slender stem. Underwater, it can reach a length of 7 to 12 inches (20 to 30 centimeter).
Rotala has very delicate leaves, so it should be handled with care. It comes in various color forms, with green being the most common, which is not surprising.
However, its popularity mainly comes from the red coloration it can develop under the right conditions. With stronger light and proper nutrient access, the leaves can turn shades of red and even pink.
Rotala grows very quickly, making it a popular choice among aquascapers. Regular trimming helps maintain a bushy appearance.
The plant continuously grows toward the light and can easily reach the water surface, even in tall aquariums.
Tank Requirements and Water parameters
I want to start by saying that this plant is easy to care for. It’s a great choice for beginner aquarists. Rotala can tolerate a wide range of water parameters and does well even in tanks without carbon dioxide (CO2).
It prefers medium to high light intensity. Optimal growth occurs at temperatures between 72-82°F (22-28°C).
It can tolerate a broad pH range (5.5-7.5) and water hardness (4-15 dGH). Although the plant can grow without extra CO2, adding CO2 and regular fertilization encourages stronger growth.
The popularity of Rotala comes from its ability to produce beautiful red leaves under the right conditions, sometimes showing shades of orange and pink.
More light and CO2 lead to better density and color, as explained below.
To achieve the desired coloration, which is highly sought after by aquascapers, several conditions need to be met at the same time.
The most important factor is proper lighting. A well-chosen light can bring out a much nicer red color. Suitable lights include Chihiros RGB, Twinstar Series S, or ADA Solar RGB.
Rotala responds to strong light by increasing the production of red pigments. Light intensity of at least 50-70 PAR at the plant level can help support this coloration. In higher areas, even better results can be achieved with PAR values above 150 (150-200 PAR).
The duration of aquarium lighting is also crucial. It’s best to control the length of the day in the aquarium using a timer or computer (some lights can be controlled via a smartphone app).
It’s recommended to light the tank for 8 to 10 hours daily. If the lighting is less than 8 hours, the growth tips are much less red. Some aquarists extend lighting to 12 hours, but this increases the risk of algae growth.
Another important factor is the appropriate concentration of nutrients in the aquarium. Rotala reveals its red colors under low levels of NO3 (below 5 ppm).
The plant turns redder when it’s low on nitrates. However, you need to make sure that other plants in the tank can also tolerate low nitrogen levels.
Additionally, too low nitrate levels can stunt the plant’s growth. It’s beneficial to maintain low nitrate levels in the water while providing nitrogen to the roots.
PO4 concentration can support intense plant coloration but should be kept at around 1 ppm or slightly higher.
Iron is a key element for Rotala. It should be dosed regularly, with levels maintained between 0.1-0.5 ppm. Depending on the plant’s response, you can adjust the iron dosage and observe the results.
Rotala is very easy to grow and can survive in almost any type of substrate. However, I recommend using fine-grained soil for the best results, as it grows slightly better in it than in sand or gravel.
It’s worth investing in nutrient-rich substrates like ADA Amazonia Soil or Seachem Flourite Black Gravel. In poorer substrates, you may need to use root tabs from time to time to strengthen the roots.
Planting and Care
You can buy Rotala in baskets, bundles, or in vitro. The planting process is similar for all, but the preparation is slightly different.
Before buying, it’s a good idea to quarantine the plants. Rotala can sometimes be affected by pests like snails and other predators.
More about planting you can read in article “How to add live plants to your aquarium?“
For plants bought in baskets, remove the plant from the basket and discard all the material inside, leaving only the plant itself. You can trim the roots a little.
Then, divide the plant into individual stems and plant them in high-quality aquarium soil. For plants bought in bundles, remove the foam surrounding the roots and plant them in good-quality substrate in the same way.
To achieve a very dense effect, you can plant several stems together.
For in vitro plants, gently remove them from the gel and rinse off the excess gel. Then, divide the plant into small clumps and plant them in the substrate.
The distance between each clump should be 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches). This spacing gives Rotala room to grow and helps create a dense, bushy look over time.
Given the plant’s delicacy, it’s important to use tweezers when planting to ensure greater precision. Remember, Rotala’s stems are very fragile.
Initially, you should trim Rotala about 8-10 cm below the final height where you want the growth tips to be.
If the Rotala was planted sparsely, I recommend trimming it even lower to help achieve greater plant density. If the tips grow unevenly, cut the ones that are growing faster than the rest to create a neat clump.
Once the clump has reached the desired height, you need to trim it regularly, cutting off the fastest-growing stems.
Regular trimming is key—this should be done every 2-3 days. If the clump is left untrimmed for too long, you may need to replant the entire plant. To do this, cut the plant very close to the substrate and replant the cut tips back into the substrate.
Caring for Rotala is similar to maintaining a grass carpet. If you want to achieve the desired visual effect, regular trimming is essential.
Problems associated with Rotala Rotundifolia
Losing its lower leaves
The loss of lower leaves is typically associated with an insufficient amount of light reaching the lower parts of the plant.
This often occurs when the plant is densely planted, causing the lower portion to suffer from a lack of light, leading to leaf loss.
While this issue might be less noticeable if Rotala is located in the background, it can ruin the overall visual effect when the plant is placed in the midground.
Stunted Growth
Stunted growth is most often related to a lack of nutrients. While it’s rare for water to be completely depleted of all essential elements, very low levels of nitrates and insufficient dosing of trace elements can result in stunted growth.
Although a low level of nitrates is recommended to achieve the desired coloration of the plant, a complete absence of nitrates will lead to growth inhibition. A deficiency in CO2 can also cause stunted growth.
Chlorosis and necrosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the leaves do not produce enough chlorophyll, which is responsible for the green coloration of the leaves.
When the plant suffers from chlorosis, the leaves appear yellow, yellow-white, or simply very pale.
The primary causes are a deficiency in iron, which plays an active role in chlorophyll production, a lack of nitrogen, or very acidic or high pH levels.
In such cases, it’s important to fertilize the water with chelated iron and ensure that the pH level is kept within the optimal range.
Growth Rate and Propagation
When regularly trimmed, Rotala forms dense clumps. You can trim it multiple times before needing to replant new, healthier stems.
It spreads quickly horizontally, and you can also trim these horizontal stems and replant them to encourage vertical growth.
If given enough space, Rotala will grow downward, creeping along the substrate. Planting it in larger clumps encourages it to grow upwards.
Propagating Rotala is similar to other stem plants. You can cut the plant anywhere along the stem and replant it. Rotala grows relatively fast, so it’s recommended to trim it often to keep it dense.
When trimming, cut just above a node (where the leaves attach to the stem). This is important because this is where new roots will form. Remove the lower leaves of the cutting to leave 2-3 nodes exposed.
Aquascaping Uses
Rotala works great in aquascaping, especially when you need to keep the tops of plants at a certain height to build a good layout.
Because it grows so quickly, you can use it as a background plant. Regular trimming helps maintain a thick wall of leaves, which makes an ideal backdrop in an aquarium.
You can also use it as a focal point in the aquarium, as its red color draws attention. When planted densely in groups and trimmed often, it creates an impressive bushy effect.
In natural or Iwagumi-style aquariums, you can plant Rotala diagonally to guide the viewer’s eye through the aquascape.
By planting Rotala at different heights, you can create a gradual transition from the midground to the background.
Rotala also highlights hardscape elements well. Planting it around the base of these structures creates a harmonious blend of hard and soft elements.
With low trimming, Rotala can be used to create a red carpet effect. This is especially striking when Rotala contrasts with other carpeting plants like Eleocharis or Glossostigma elatinoides.
Rotala also helps remove excess nutrients and nitrates from the water, which in turn limits algae growth. This plant is so hungry for nutrients that it outcompetes algae, leaving them no chance to thrive.
Rotala’s root system also helps break up anaerobic pockets in the substrate, which can prevent the buildup of harmful gases like hydrogen sulfide (H2S), a gas that can be very dangerous for fish and shrimp.
Dense Rotala clumps provide shelter for shy fish and shrimp, and they are also perfect for protecting newly hatched fry.
Tank Mates
All plants with similar requirements can be planted alongside Rotala. However, it’s important to note that Rotala grows very quickly, so you need to consider its potential to outcompete other plants for nutrients.
Additionally, if it becomes too large and starts floating at the water’s surface, it may cast shade over other plants, which could hinder their growth.
To create a sense of depth in your aquascape, you can layer Rotala with other background plants such as Vallisneria or Hygrophila.
The varied height and texture of these species will help achieve a natural and dynamic appearance.
As I mentioned earlier, under the right conditions, Rotala turns a vibrant red color. This will contrast beautifully with green plants like Cryptocoryne or Java Fern.
It also pairs well with plants like Anubias nana, Water Wisteria, or Anacharis.
Rotala is compatible with all species of freshwater fish and other aquatic creatures because it is hardy and non-toxic.
You can keep it with a wide variety of fish species, avoiding only those that are particularly aggressive and may tear the plant or fight with other larger fish in the aquarium.
Examples of such species include Oscars and certain Cichlids (e.g., Texas Cichlids, Red Devils).
Rotala is also safe to keep with all types of shrimp, as well as with non-invasive snails like Mystery Snails, Zebra Nerite Snails, Tiger Nerite Snails, Horned Nerite Snails, Rabbit Snails, and Japanese Trapdoor Snails.
However, it’s best to avoid keeping crayfish or crabs in the aquarium, as they can destroy plants, including Rotala.
Where to Buy
You can easily buy Rotala at most pet stores, and you can also find it online. A single pot can be purchased for around $5.
It’s a good idea to buy the plant from a physical store where you can inspect it for any holes, tears in the leaves, or other signs of poor health.
Avoid leaves that are discolored, or have holes or tears. The plant should be a bright green or reddish color.
Personally, I usually buy plants online, and I’ve never had an issue with them arriving in bad condition.
Of course, this depends on where you buy the plant and whether you’re purchasing from a reliable source. It’s a good idea to read reviews about the seller before making a purchase.
Rotala is also grown in emersed conditions, meaning it’s grown out of water. When you buy such a plant, it may look a bit different from the plant you’re used to seeing in an aquarium.
Once planted in your aquarium, it will gradually take on the shape and colors often seen in photos.
Don’t worry if your Rotala doesn’t immediately look like the pictures you’ve seen; it will develop its characteristic features after being submerged in water.
In conclusion
I’m sure you’ve found all the information you need in this article to grow beautiful Rotala.
It’s a really easy plant to take care of, and even if you’re just starting out, don’t be afraid to buy it.
With a little patience, you’ll be able to get that nice red color.
If you have any questions, I’m here to help!