Canister filters are the best choice for many aquarists. In general, external power filters are much smaller and have less sophisticated filtration and flow control than internal power filters. They’re more convenient to set up and maintain, and don’t have as many filter media options and accessories as a canister filter.
Setup an aquarium canister filter the right way
Canister filters are a little bit harder to get used to than power filters, but they do offer more flexibility.
It’s a bit intimidating when you first open the box and see all the different components that have to be put together.
You don’t have to be overwhelmed. I’ll show you how to installing a canister filter: step by step.
Step 1: Read the instruction
Many people don’t read product manuals. For this reason, it can be a real challenge to assemble a canister filter.
There are many parts that need to be assembled in the right order and at the correct time. If you have a complicated model to assemble, you might want to hire someone else to do it for you.
If you don’t follow the instructions, it can be very frustrating to put the canister together. You just need to read the instructions carefully before you begin assembling the filter.
The instructions usually contain pictures of the parts that you are going to assemble.
Make sure that you look at all of the pictures and that you don’t skip any of them. If you do, you may end up assembling your canister filter incorrectly.
Step 2: Check and identify the parts list
It’s important to look over the details of the product so you know exactly what you’re getting. Look over the parts list, and check to see if everything you need is included.
Make sure that the canister filter you bought contains all the parts. Your filter package should include all the necessary items to start pumping.
Before using any media that may have been included with your filter, inspect it for any damage and ensure that it is compatible with your filter system.
There are many parts that can be missing from a filter. If you find that you are missing a part from your filter, contact the manufacturer.
You can exchange the entire filter or replacement part if it’s missing. You can also look for any damaged parts. If you find damaged parts, manufacturer should replace them with new ones.
It’s a good idea to compare the parts list with what came in the box. You may be able to save time by knowing what the component looks like. This will also make it easier to assemble the entire filter.
Step 3: Assemble the canister
Open up the canister and look inside the filter baskets. Notice how the baskets are arranged. They’re nested inside one another. Pay attention to the seating of the motor head. The canister can leak if the lid clamp is not secure enough.
The quality of the filters you get will depend on which type of filtration media is included with the canister filter.
If you want to use activated carbon, zeolite, or other specialty media, you will need to purchase it separately before assembling the canister.
You can stack the filter media in the baskets according to the instructions on the instruction manual.
Some canisters will have more or fewer baskets, so check the specs to see how many they have. Taller canisters have more baskets, so they can hold a larger selection of different sizes of media.
The filter media must be rinsed thoroughly before it’s placed in the filter.
Dust is not a good thing for your fish tank, and you should always remove it before adding new filter media. Rinsing removes also air bubbles of media like activated carbon.
If you notice any gaps between the baskets and the bottom of the filter, consider using some old ceramic rings to line the bottom. This will help to dissipate any waste that may accumulate in that area.
Remember! Before purchasing a filter, it is worth checking what is included in the set. Sets usually do not include additional filter media – you must buy them separately.
Step 4: Install filter media
When setting up your filter, it’s important to consider the mechanical media that will be used. This type of media should be placed in the first tray of the filter.
As water is drawn from the tank and flows through the first tray, it becomes cleaner as it passes through each successive layer of the filter.
To optimize the cleaning process, it’s recommended to use three different types of foam media in the first tray – coarse, fine, and extra fine – and arrange them from bottom to top in that order.
Each layer will filter out progressively smaller particles, preparing the water for the next stage of filtration.
The second tray is a good place to add additional media such as activated carbon or phosphate removers like PhosBan.
These types of media are often sold in loose granules, so it’s important to use a filter bag to contain them and prevent them from clogging the filter’s impeller.
Finally, you can add your preferred biological media to the third tray from the bottom. Some options include ceramic rings, bio-balls, or a product like Biohome.
Some aquarium owners prefer to use a single type of biological media, while others like to mix and match. The choice is yours!
Step 5: Place the filter under your aquarium
After you install the canister, test-fit it where it will go. You’ll want to make sure that it fits and is easy to remove for maintenance. The power cord has to reach a power outlet to work properly.
Find the best place for your filter considering the amount of space for its maintenance.
But there is one more very important thing!!! A filter should be placed below the aquarium.
The canister filter fills by gravity. Some aquarists who have tall tanks place the filter next to the aquarium. In such cases, the filter may not be effective.
It is generally recommended to place most filters at a level between 8 inches and 4 ½ feet below the water level of your tank. Refer to the instructions manual for your specific filter for its ideal placement.
Step 6: Install the hoses
When installing your canister filter, you should make sure that the hoses are connected properly.
The first hose goes into the filter. The second hose goes from the filter to the aquarium.
When you install the canister filter, it is important to make sure that you have enough room for the hoses.
This will depend on where the canister is located in the aquarium. If you don’t have enough room in the cabinet, you will not be able to move the canister.
The hoses should not be too short. You will need to cut them long enough to reach the top of the canister filter.
To begin, attach the intake and return tubes to their corresponding hoses.
Then, position the hoses on the aquarium in a way that they will remain when the filter is set up.
After that, run the hoses behind the aquarium and into the cabinet.
Make sure to leave enough slack in the hoses so that you can easily remove the canister filter from the cabinet for maintenance purposes.
If you are using a filter that has quick disconnect valves, you won’t have to worry about the hose length. These valves allow you to easily disconnect the hoses from the canister without having to remove it from the cabinet.
However, it is important to avoid kinking in the hoses. If the hose is too long or not positioned properly, it may droop and create a kink or sharp bend, which can block the water flow.
To determine the optimal hose length for your aquarium setup, it is recommended to test the fit of the hoses before fully installing the filter.
Some professional tips for handling filter hoses and tubing
When it comes to tubing, silicone is the way to go. Its thick walls and flexibility make it resistant to kinking, even in tight bends.
Plus, silicone is softer than other plastics, which makes it easy to attach barbed inlet and outlet fittings to the hoses.
And because silicone doesn’t have a “memory,” it won’t retain any bends or kinks even if it’s coiled up in the filter box – it will simply roll out straight when needed.
In addition to silicone, some canister filters also come with vinyl tubing. The thick-walled varieties are resistant to kinking and don’t tend to retain their shape, making them easy to slide onto inlet and outlet fittings.
On the other hand, budget-friendly vinyl hoses with thinner walls tend to be less flexible and may remain bent or kinked when attempting to unroll them.
It’s important to consider the quality and durability of the tubing when choosing a canister filter, as using subpar hoses can ultimately hinder the performance of the system.
If you’re struggling to work with stiff hose, here’s a trick that can help: fill your kitchen sink with warm water and soak the hoses until they become more pliable.
As the tubing softens up, you can use your hands to gently “massage” out any bends or kinks.
This technique will also make it easier to attach barbed fittings to the hose ends without a fight. When the hoses are softer, they’ll be more willing to bend and conform to your desired placement under the aquarium.
Step 7: Strat your filter
The sixth step in the process is priming the canister filter. After adding the filter media and installing the hoses, it’s time to get the filter ready for operation.
Once you have checked that everything is in place and properly set up, you can turn on your filter by plugging it in.
With most canister filters, the water pump is located inside the canister lid. If you try to plug in the filter without filling the canister with water first, you risk damaging the impeller.
Additionally, ensure that your tank is filled to its maximum capacity and that the hose connecting to it has a clear, unobstructed path.
To properly prime a typical canister filter, you must first fill the canister tank with water.
Once the pump is activated, it will send the water back to the tank, and water from the aquarium will refill the canister through a siphon action.
The return pump is a device that circulates water back into the aquarium. The intake hose is often larger than the return hose because it is responsible for sending more water to the canister using siphon action.
This helps to ensure that the pump never runs out of water. However, before this process can be initiated, the filter must be primed.
To prime a canister filter means to fill the canister tank with water. Some models come with a special button for this purpose, which utilizes a small suction pump to initiate the siphon on the intake side of the filter.
By pressing this button a few times, aquarium water will begin to flow into the canister.
If your filter does not have a priming button, you may need to use your mouth to create suction on the outlet hose in order to start the siphon.
After the canister is filled with water, the next step is to plug it in and begin the filtration process.
Air inside the filter
Initially, there may be some air trapped inside the canister when you start using the filter.
This is because the filter media, such as activated carbon and sponge filters, can release air into the system. As the pump works to remove the air, it may produce some whooshing noises.
If you hear a grinding sound from the impeller, it could be caused by an air pocket inside the canister tank that is preventing the pump from moving water and air through the filter.
In this case, it is recommended to unplug the filter for about 30 seconds, and then plug it back in. This should allow the pump to operate normally.
Step 8: Adjust the intake
There are a few types of intake fittings that are commonly used. Many canisters come with a fixed length intake tube that has a filter screen at the end. Some canisters also come with extension tubes that can be added to the length of the intake.
The goal of lowering the intake screen closer to the bottom of the aquarium is to allow it to more easily collect solid debris from the gravel.
However, if there is a noticeable amount of solid waste accumulating on top of the gravel in your aquarium, it is likely that you are overfeeding your fish or have too many of them in the tank.
This can be a serious issue that needs to be addressed.
Furthermore, canister filters do not have the capability to sweep water and debris from the bottom of the tank. Therefore, you have the option to decide how low to place the intake.
Many aquarium hobbyists opt to locate the intake lower in the aquarium. This can assist in hiding the intake screen, which is a significant component that prevents fish from being drawn into the filter system.
Snails are known for their ability to enter canister filters, and their hard shells can obstruct the pump’s impeller and cause it to stop functioning.
It is always recommended to use the intake screen to prevent this from happening.
Step 9: Adjust the outlet
The outlet that releases water back into the aquarium may be a simple nozzle or a more advanced design that allows you to adjust the direction of the flow to the left, right, up, or down.
This gives you the choice of directing the water to flow deeper into the tank or across the surface for wave action.
A spray bar produces a gentle flow of water and helps to create movement on the surface of the water. This can help to increase the oxygen content of the aquarium water.
Some aquarium enthusiasts enjoy the sound of spraying water, while others prefer to use a quieter nozzle option.
There are tips on how to make a leak-free canister filter
One of the most frequent issues with canister filters is leakage where the lid and canister tank connect. To create a seal between these two parts, most lids use a rubber O-ring.
There are various designs for this seal, depending on the brand of the canister filter. The O-ring may be round or stretchy to fit onto a square motor. Some filters have the O-ring placed in a groove on the lid.
It is very important to check the O-ring before installing the canister on the lid. If you don’t do this, the O-ring may not seal properly.
You should pay attention to the position of the O-ring before you close the lid. The O-ring should not be twisted or wedged when the lid is closed. The O-ring is like a seal between the lid and the canister.
When trimming the hoses, it is important to ensure that the cuts are clean and free of jagged edges. The ends of the hose should be cut squarely, rather than at an angle, as this allows for an even grip around the hose barb.
Certain canister filters utilize locking compression fittings on the canister and shut-off valves, which rely on tight-fitting nuts to create a seal.
If the ends of the hose are not cut evenly, the compression nut may not be able to create a proper seal, leading to potential dripping or the hose becoming disconnected from the canister.
Your canister filter may be equipped with plastic hose clamps, which are meant to hold hoses in place on barbed fittings.
These clamps are commonly used on the intake and return outlets and also on the canister itself. They can be tightened by hand without the need for additional tools, but it is important to be careful not to apply too much pressure and risk breaking the plastic clamp.
Reducing the noise of a canister filter
Some canister filter users may experience issues with noise, such as an audible humming sound coming from the filter when it is housed in an aquarium cabinet.
This noise is often caused by the natural vibration of the filter’s electric pump motor.
Normally, the noise produced by the filter may not be noticeable. However, when it is placed inside a hard, wooden cabinet, the sound can be amplified, as if the cabinet is acting like a speaker box and amplifying the noise.
To reduce or eliminate this vibration, it is helpful to isolate the base of the canister from the cabinet by placing pieces of corrugated cardboard under it.
Placing pieces of corrugated cardboard under the canister can help to dissipate vibrations and reduce the noise of the filter.
In conclusion
As you become more familiar with your canister filter, you may find that both the setup and maintenance are relatively simple processes.
It is important to take your time when assembling and configuring your new filter system in order to ensure that it is properly set up and functioning optimally.
The improved filtration, cleaner water, and circulation that a well-maintained canister filter provides are worth the effort.
Properly caring for your filter will help to ensure that it continues to provide excellent filtration and circulation for your aquarium.
If you have any questions or comments about your filter, don’t hesitate to leave them below.
